La Luna
272 Thayer Street
Providence, RI
by Bob Mariani
The College Hill/Thayer Street area is a thriving market for restaurants what with the constant flow of college students and visiting parents. La Luna is strategically situated in the middle of it all, just one short flight up from bustling Thayer Street. To accommodate the wide ranging appetites of the area, they’ve come up with a kind of all-purpose menu with an added dash of style.
We arrived early on a weekday evening and the influx of College Hill customers had not yet begun. La Luna’s interior has been redecorated in a kind of retro-sixties-Jetson’s style with warm oranges and deep reds and exposed, foil-wrapped ductwork overhead. There’s a bar with tall chairs and tables overlooking the street, and a comfy dining section.
The appetizer menu offers s number of familiar favorites: "Colossal Shrimp Cocktail" ($8.95); Chicken Satay ($7.95); Fried Mozzarella in a spicy homemade marinara ($8.95); Antipasto ($9.95); and the pizza of the day ($9.95).
I began with some of their coconut shrimp ($8.95). The half-dozen medium-size shrimp were split and dipped in a crispy coconut batter and came with a delicious sweet mango chutney dipping sauce.
My wife had their Maryland Crab Cakes ($8.95), very light and fresh tasting with a nice side of Jicama and Chayote slaw and a dash of chili with cilantro, lime and roasted garlic. Both appetizers were ample but you still had room for the main course.
I chose the herb-crusted lamb chops ($21.95). In most restaurants you typically get three chops with this dish, and so I was amazed when a full dozen of the delicate chops arrived, cooked perfectly to slightly pink medium-rare as I’d requested. On the side was a luscious handful of cooked broccoli rabe laced with garlic and some chunky and flavorful lemon steak fries. The small dab of piquant dipping sauce added a nice spring-like note.
Jan had the chicken breast marinated in a sweet and sour balsamic sauce punctuated with tidbits of figs. Chicken breasts tend to be a bit dry for my taste, and so I was pleased that the generous splash of balsamic juiced things up considerably.
Other entrées at La Luna are standards like Atlantic Salmon ($17.95) with grilled Yukon potatoes and sautéed green beans; Monkfish Picatta ($18.95) with sun-dried tomato polenta and asparagus; Rosemary Duck Breast ($18.95) with an apricot glaze and herb cous cous and asparagus; Oven-Roasted Pork Tenderloin ($17.95); and for beef lovers, Filet Mignon ($22.95) and Grilled Sirloin ($21.95).
We did not have room for any of La Luna’s pasta dishes, but I look forward to returning for their Jumbo Lobster Ravioli ($18.95); their Fruiti De mare ($16.95) or their Quattro Formaggi Ravioli ($10.95 ) with roasted red peppers, garlic and spinach in a sage cream cause. Our hostess informed us that later this spring, La Luna will be adding a number of Middle Eastern-influenced dishes to their menu, so you might want to check that out in a couple of weeks.
The menu here is geared to satisfy a lot of tastes at various times during the day and so La Luna also offers a variety of different wraps and sandwiches in addition to their more dinner-style dishes.
For dessert we shared their house-made chocolate molten cake, a rich, chocolate-lover’s delight that put a satisfying end to a good meal.
La Luna is open for lunch and dinner and takes reservations. For more information call (401) 331-6297.
