Bella Vista
One Finance Way
Providence, RI
by Bob Mariani
As I observed this past summer, Bella Vista could not be more aptly named. Its views of the City are unequalled. Its interior is equally handsome with rich, in-laid hardwood floors and spare mission style lamps and furnishings. And their outdoor verandas (enclosed for the winter) offer the unique combination of a water/cityscape vistas.
The menu, however, has had its ups and downs. Right now under the creative direction of Chef Todd Lesakowski, formerly of CAV and Blue Ginger, the food is definitely on the upswing. Put that another way—you can come here for a good meal now, instead of just for a dazzling view.
On a recent quiet, pre-holiday evening my friend Brian and I slipped into a roomy curved booth in Bella Vista’s second floor dining room. The menu indeed looked promising with new autumn appetizers like Jonah Crab Cake with Thai seasoning ($12); a fried seafood trio of smelts, oysters and calamari with exotic dipping sauces ($14); a tartlet of confit tomato with Parmeggiano-Reggiano cheese ($8); and oyster leek chowder with fingerling potatoes and applewood-smoked bacon ($8).
The chef started us off with a delicious little mouthful of palate-clearing fois gras on a tidbit of fresh French bread. It was followed by their new autumnal pan-roasted Vermont quail— a delicate leg and thigh atop a creamy fois gras risotto with a touch of pomegranate syrup.
For my main appetizer I chose the Point Judith lobster ravioli ($8) and was delighted with the trio of stuffed pasta pillows topped with miniature lobster tails that had been poached to perfection in butter.
My friend began with a simple but garden-fresh-delicious arugula salad ($8) with a warm bacon-sherry vinaigrette, mushrooms a la Greque, and some goat cheese fondue. What more can you ask from a mere salad?
I so seldom see skate wings on a menu that I jumped at the chance to try this version. The unique, crenellated skate filets were braised and dusted in a soft "Quinoa grain" that added texture and perhaps just a tad too much salt for my taste. Beneath the fish, there was what seemed like another creamy version of risotto in a mild lemon emulsion to balance everything nicely. ($22).
Brian’s a meat and potatoes man and so he ordered the Sirloin of Wolf’s Neck Farm beef ($30). (Funny to see the words "wolf" and "beef" in the same sentence on a menu, but this was a serious beef dish.) The thinly sliced, medium-rare sirloin had been cooked ou Poivre with tiny peppercorns and it was melt-in-your-mouth tender. The real surprise was the "Dauphine Potatoes," which seemed more like little round, miniature popovers with a golden, buttery crust. A very nice, light alternative to your usual baked or mashed potatoes.
The rest of chef Lesakowski’s menu is very well balanced and each item seems to harbor a hint of surprise. There’s Chatham codfish braised in Vers Juice Blanc with ragout of seasonal vegetables ($24); a grilled loin of Kurobuta Pork baby back ribs with a Chipotle-smoked apple compote ($29); free range chicken Taiwanese-style with scallions and ginger ($26); Pappardelle pasta with "Australian spot prawns" in an herb and garlic cream sauce ($22); and linguini with a white Miso Well Fleet clam sauce ($20).
For dessert, all of which are house-made, I chose a classic profiterole. This was a three-pronged version of delicate, sweet cake shells stuffed with feathery light whipped cream and just kissed with an irresistible chocolate sauce.
No missteps here. I think that Bella Vista is definitely on the right track to becoming a destination where the food is primary and the view, though always spectacular, is secondary. In fact, they’re even considering changing their name to reflect this new emphasis.
They’re open every night but Monday from 5pm to 9pm for dinner and accept major credit cards. There’s valet parking. For reservations or information call 401-272-1040.
Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Your Table is Ready" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
