The Salvation Café
140 Broadway
Newport, RI
by Bob Mariani
Just when you think you’ve nailed the Salvation Café’s spirit and décor as retro-sixties-hippy-bistro, you spot a whole corner of the dining room devoted to South American "art" and artifacts. And then there are the metal road signs and gas station memorabilia along with an old fifties hair-dryer, and chochkies from your own Aunt Marilyn’s last yard sale— and somehow, it all works.
The Salvation Café is a storefront location on Broadway in one of Newport’s less tone-y, more Bohemian neighborhoods, which is right where it belongs. And like its décor, the menu is anything but predictable.
The appetizer list is fairly short but covers a nice range with items like black bean soup with roasted corn salsa ($6); Thai sweet potato fish and shrimp cakes with a spicy mint dipping sauce ($8); vegetable dumplings with soy dipping sauce ($6.50); summer harvest pizza ($10); Salvation crispy calamari with sweet and spicy vinaigrette and banana peppers ($8); and mussels in white wine with Lao chili paste ($12).
On a previous visit I’d dined alone at the bar and really enjoyed the Salvation Bowl entrée ($12) - slippery lomein noodles, oyster mushrooms, and sesame-seared tofu in a Miso mushroom broth.
On this night I ordered a heftier entrée—their grilled Thai BBQ pork loin ($16). The pork was really tender and juicy and deeply marinated in a sweet/hot sauce laced with basil, mint, lime and chili paste. I loved how this really flavorful marinade totally permeated the tender meat. It came with a fluffy helping of sweet potatoes that mingled sweetness with the tang of the chili paste. Last but far from least was the "fried spinach", crunchy leaflets that exploded softly in your mouth with a soft, mild buttery flavor. I’d never had anything quite like this before but I sure will be back to have it again.
My wife (along with several other people at surrounding tables) ordered the Thai Beef Salad. What a deal for only eight bucks! A generous helping of perfectly seared little marinated tenderloin tips mingled with al dente rice-vermicelli noodles, seasoned with mint and lime zest and a Pad Thai sauce. A light but very satisfying salad that even a meat-lover will be happy with.
Other entrée dishes I can’t wait to be back for include the 12-0z. N.Y. sirloin Gaucho Steak ($21) served with chimichurri and Red Bliss mashed potatoes; the Salvation Burger ($9.50) with cheddar cheese, spicy aioli, lettuce and tomato on a flour tortilla; teriyaki salmon ($18) with lemon coconut rice and fried spinach; and pesto chicken ($17) with linguine.
The Salvation’s prices are very reasonable and the portion sizes are quite ample without being ridiculously over-done. From a short but sweet desert list that included chocolate truffle cake ($6); chocolate banana purses ($6); and vanilla or ginger ice cream ($3), we shared their honey-whipped mascarpone tart with fresh blue berries ($6). Delightfully light and satisfyingly rich, this desert kind of summed up all that’s good about the Salvation Café: creatively married, fresh ingredients served without pretension or glitz at reasonable prices in a friendly neighborhood atmosphere.
I can’t imagine anyone leaving the Salvation Café feeling anything but pleased and satisfied. They’re open daily from 5pm -11 pm. For more information call 401-847-2620 or visit their
website.Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Your Table is Ready" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
