With warmer weather finally here, people’s moods and wardrobes are not the only things lightened up. Summertime lends itself to more refreshing and lighter-bodied wines as well, and German wines are "just what the doctor ordered".

Dr. Loosen, that is, one of the most renowned wine estates of the Mosel. Ernst Loosen is the current guardian of this family-owned estate, continuing a 200-year-old tradition. Since taking over in 1988, he has brought about numerous changes, not only in vineyard and winemaking practices at their famous Mosel estate, but by buying the J.L. Wolf estate to make dry wines in the southerly Pfalz region of Germany.

In addition, Loosen recently formed a transatlantic partnership with Chateau St. Michelle to make "Eroica", a premium Riesling wine, in Washington state. Ernie Loosen is known as an advocate not only for his own wines, but also for Riesling in particular, and German wine as a whole. Together with winemaker Bernhard Schug, they have taken this long established family firm towards the pinnacle of fine German wine. In fact, in the past decade, the wines of Dr. Loosen have been regarded as one of the Mosel’s very best.

At a time when the quality of much of German wine was under scrutiny, Ernie adopted a very modern-thinking approach to winemaking, based on historical good practice. He has dramatically reduced crop sizes, abandoned chemical fertilization and improved cellar practices to make for more natural winemaking with a minimum of "technological meddling" as he puts it. He has also been outspoken about the systems used to classify German vineyards, and offers a unique classification system for his wines.

There are numerous wines under the Dr. Loosen label that are worth trying, especially on a warm summer evening. Loosen’s "Dr. L" Riseling 2000 features a lightly nutty nose, with an herbal quality over crisp apple and some citrus fruit. The palate is smooth-textured and has a nice sweetness, along with peach, pear and an apple acidity that maintains balance.

Also very good is the Bernkasteler Lay Kabinett 1999, which is described as a handcrafted wine from 70-year-old vines. This has a distinctive mineral nose that is gravelly, with a finely honed quality of fruit. The palate is just off-dry, with a racy core of mineral acidity carrying through and plenty of lemony fruit leading to a long, dry finish.

Loosen’s Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese 1999 has a fabulous nose that is redolent of nectarine and peach, with hints of flowers and spice. It is surprisingly light and elegant on the palate, with a dancing lemon acidity and lush fruit that has notes of pineapple and guava. This is a well-balanced wine that has considerable cellaring potential.

Under the JL Wolf label, the Wachenheimer Riesling 2001 is a very good choice. It features an expressive nose with a tropical, mango and nectarine profile, with a twist of citrus freshness. Rich and flavorful on the palate, it is nicely balanced, with good, fresh acidity and considerable body.