When most people think of white wine, chardonnay is typically the type that springs to mind. Yet, in the late 1980s and into the 1990s, a backlash occurred. An informal movement calling itself ABC for "Anything But Chardonnay" gained force, with its "members" proclaiming that they were so tired of the ubiquitous white that they would rather drink anything else.

These days, however, the ABC movement has gone underground and chardonnay appears to be back on track with many wine drinkers. However, it is unoaked chardonnay that is causing the most stir among wine fans and critics alike.

Unlike the buttery and toasty flavors most commonly associated with chardonnay, unoaked chardonnay offers bright, citrus fruit aromas and crisp apple and pear flavors. With their grape purity, unoaked chardonnays are more refreshing on the palate than typical chardonnays, making them a good choice for pairing with food.

The unoaked chardonnay trend is most prevalent in New Zealand and Australia, where there are an estimated 200 producers of the product. Although there aren’t too many domestic un-oaked chardonnays yet, the concept is beginning to catch on and new brands are entering the marketplace.

What, exactly, is un-oaked chardonnay? According to a recent article in Drinks magazine, California vintners began using the winemaking techniques of Burgundy, such as barrel fermentation, to encourage malolactic fermentation. Kendall Jackson inadvertently began a much-copied trend of covering up a slightly sweet batch of wine with oak barrel aging after its Vintner’s Reserve Chardonnay became a runaway success.

However, critics say that winemakers have become too accustomed to relying on oak to provide flavor, rather than using it as a process to let the wine breathe. Nowadays, the emerging trend is to use more restraint with oak, if not do away with it altogether. As American cuisine has become lighter, emphasizing more freshness, seafood, and Asian inspiration, there is a realization that the white wine accompanying it should be clean and bracing, as opposed to buttery or toasty.

While the new anti-oak movement has gained momentum, it should be noted that oak isn’t inherently bad. When used properly, it can give great texture and complexity to chardonnay. However, winemakers are finding that turning down the oak quotient or eliminating it altogether makes sense for chardonnay that is produced in warmer climates like California and Australia, where the wines have a naturally softer acidity to begin with.

Two Australian unoaked chardonnays worth sampling are Madfish Unwooded Chardonnay 2004 and Yalumba Series Unwooded Chardonnay 2004. The Madfish has bright citrus fruit and melon aromas and a clean finish while the Yalumba possesses surprising length and richness to go with a nose of pineapple, lemon and melon.

From New Zealand, Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay 2004 is a lively wine with a silky texture and tropical fruits and citrus on the nose while Alpha Domus Unoaked Chardonnay 2004 offers a fascinating fusion of tropical and mineral notes.

Two noteworthy offerings from the U.S. are Domaine Drouhin Oregon Arthur Chardonnay 2003, a vibrant, complex wine with a hint of spice, and Martin & Weyrich Huerhuero Creek Unwooded Chardonnay 2003, featuring an intriguing nose of ripe apples and pears.