It’s going to be hard to keep this article from sounding like a love letter to Lot 401’s Chef Rachael Francis Klein because the fact is, I’m quite smitten with her cooking. I was the first time I went there about a year ago, and as of this writing I can only find more to like about her exceptional work.

Until now when anyone from out of state asked me what the best local restaurants are, I’ve always referred to New Rivers, Gracie’s, and of course, Al Forno— not necessarily in that order. Now I can add to this list, Lot 401, over in the developing Jewelry District of Providence. The décor in this intimate, 10-table, storefront restaurant is, like the food, pared down to its essentials: clean, uncluttered, functional and above all, focused. "Cool" in the very best sense of the term. There is a quiet, self-assured atmosphere and an enthusiastic wait staff that knows how to make you feel welcome.

Before bringing us the items we ordered, we were teased with a couple of amazing little starters— a tablespoon-full of a mild, home-made relish with finely chopped salmon tartar and minute flecks of red pepper and dill. It felt like a fresh little ocean breeze. Things kicked up another notch with an exquisite piece of smoked lobster accompanied by a truly amazing almond milk sauce, a few sliced almonds, grapes and crispy fresh field greens. Chef Klein’s idea of smoking the lobster meat is absolutely brilliant and it adds a totally unique dimension.

For my appetizer, I had the Prince Edward Island Mussels ($12). They came arranged in a graceful semi-circle doused with a coconut and green curry sauce that began with a soft, creamy taste and finished with a bright, peppery tang. The mussels were accompanied by little crispy squares of "shrimp toast," another very original concept that worked perfectly with the rest of the dish - and all very light.

My wife had the Organic Baby Greens ($8), a beautifully simple presentation of very fresh locally grown baby lettuce, shallots, herbs, and pear tomatoes in tantalizing "Banyuls vinaigrette." It’s presented as a kind of tenderly crunchy "sandwich" of lettuce leaves.

Other appetizers I can’t wait to return for are the Torched Tuna Tartar ($14), with almonds, green onions and a pomegranate molasses; the Duet of Hudson Valley Foie Gras Dumplings ($18), with Asian pear and ginger compote; the Baby Artichoke Ravioli($14); and the Lobster and Wild Mushroom Pan Roast ($16), which I had last time and went absolutely gaga for.

My entrée this time was the Lot’s signature "Steak & Eggs" ($32). This is a perfectly grilled, piece of filet mignon you could cut with a butter knife, topped with a truffle-infused fried egg with its eggshell shape in tact and encrusted with— I couldn’t tell what, but it was sensational! It was complemented by a creamy potato puree and Bordelaise sauce and some garden fresh chopped asparagus spears. You could taste every detail of flavor and each one worked to enhance the other - subtle and at the same time intense.

Jan had the Tandoori Spiced Tuna ($26), several small squares of perfectly grilled tuna with a very thin, crumb-like crust, accompanied by yellow lentils, delicate zucchini fries and blossoms, and a pomegranate-infused cabbage and a marvelous ginger slaw. Each flavor was arranged on the plate like a dollop of color on an artist’s pallet and each time you mixed them, you came up with yet another taste sensation. Every flavor worked perfectly with the others. Result: another small masterpiece.

The rest of the menu, which will be changing slightly for summer in a couple of weeks, contained things like George’s Bank Scallops ($26) with grilled applewood-smoked bacon, English peas, black trumpet mushrooms and beet strie: Asian Style Braised Pork ($22), with bacon, sweet and sour red cabbage, fingerling potatoes and Chinese hot mustard; Golden Sea Bass and Prince Edward Island Mussels ($24), with caramelized baby fennel, white turnips, morel mushrooms, Pernod cream and herb salad; Black Pearl Salmon ($24); Domestic Loin of Lamb ($34), with fried artichokes and garlic confit; and a "Vegetarian Plate ($18) that changes daily.

For dessert I had the house-made London Bridge ($10), a beautiful slab of intense dark chocolate pate with a touch of lemon confit, accompanied by a soda fountain glassful of Grey’s ice cream milk shake. Jan finished with the very memorable Farmstead Cake ($8), made with artisan goat cheesecake and topped with Vermont blueberries and a light and airy lemon-thyme syrup.

As complex as many of Chef Klein’s dishes may sound, they are so artfully balanced and made with such creative restraint that you leave feeling completely satisfied and yet not "full." There is an attention to delicacy and nuance here at Lot 401 that I’ve only experience in a very few of New York City’s more sophisticated restaurants. If you don’t dine here, you are missing something truly special.