A few short years ago when Tom and Rozann Buckner transformed their Atwells Ave. deli into a first rate white tablecloth restaurant, they were named one of the top ten best new restaurants in the country by Esquire Magazine. They received well-deserved accolades from other magazines as well. Now, just last month, they’ve taken their expertise and flair for fine, fresh, creative cuisine to the next level and in the process, added another jewel to the newly emerging downtown Providence area’s crown.

As L’Epicureo at The Hotel Providence’s new address indicates, they are now elegantly ensconced in the city’s newest in-town hotel at the corner of Mathewson and Westminster Streets. The conversion of what was for many years a very dreary old building into a graceful, glamorous urban boutique hotel deserves an entire column to itself. Suffices to say, L’Epecurio now occupies some very fine new digs indeed.

The new ground floor dining room just off the hotel lobby is done in an up-dated Italian Renaissance style with large, gold-framed reproductions of DaVinci and Bottichelli paintings on the burgundy walls. The floors are cool gray granite. The lighting, soft and romantic. The menu cover continues the Renaissance theme. The menu’s contents are a sparkling, well-made array of updated classic offerings.

From an appetizer list of items like Pan Seared Fois Gras with pear-current chutney; Braised Snails with porcini mushrooms and herbs; Alaskan King Crab Cakes; and a Tortellini and Meatball soup, I chose their Potato and Truffle Frittata. The taste of truffles is unique. It seems to hit a part of the palate that no other food can reach. In this dish, subtly blended into a light-as-air, pie-shaped wedge of a frittata, the woodsy truffle taste was absolutely seductive. Lightly garnished with sherry vinaigrette, it made an ideal starter.

My wife chose the Artichoke and Bacon Tart made with a rich, mild Gruyere cheese base and served over baby greens. Only the most tender bits of the baby artichoke hearts were used and the marriage of the buttery cheese flavor with the subtle smoky bacon slices was simply superb.In addition to the regular appetizers, there’s also the Chef’s Presentation Antipasto for the table, and a Five Cheese tasting platter available.

I’ll be back another time for a taste of what looked to be some excellent pastas like their Maine Lobster Ravioli in a Cognac cream sauce or the Sweet Potato Pansotti.

This night, for my entrée, I opted for one of the evening’s specials; Broiled Lamb Chops served over a zucchini and artichoke risotto. Even back when Chef Tom Buckner was running his little Federal Hill deli, the meats he chose were always superb. That has not changed. The medium size New Zealand lamb chops were cooked perfectly pink on the inside. The risotto was yet another triumph of blended flavors and creamy textures; rich but not too filling.

My wife’s entrée had her smiling from the very first mouthful. It was the Steamed Halibut, a lovely piece of pure white fish cooked to fork-tender perfection. It came on a bed of fresh julienne vegetables and a wonderfully refreshing celeriac root purée, just the right hint of the spring we’ve all been longing for.

Some of the other entrées I can’t wait to try are: the Slow-Braised (17 hours!) Tuscan Style Pork Belly served with deep-fried polenta; the Duck Confit Cassoulet with grilled duck sausage; the Open Face Maine Lobster Pot Pie with winter truffle sauce; the classic Veal Osso Buco with Risotto Milanese sprinkled with a parsley-garlic Gremolata; and Pan-Seared Tenderloin of Beef in a peppercorn crust and Merlot sauce.

There’s a dazzling array of house-made desserts from which I selected the Rustic Apple Crostada. It was made with tart Granny Smith apples sliced and baked to tender softness and set in a Tuscan-inspired light and buttery pastry crust. The entire creation was brushed with a fresh-tasting apricot glaze and served hot from the oven with a not-too-sweet caramel sauce.

Jan had the Warm Chocolate Tart, a chocolate-lover’s delight made with dense dark chocolate custard baked in a round open shell and finished with white chocolate and raspberry sauce with fresh whipped cream on the side.

Appetizer prices are in the $9 to $17 range, entrées are from $22 to $39, and desserts are all $7 or $8. There are also a number of interesting, specially paired ice wine, dessert wine, and port sampling selections for after dinner.

L’Epicureo’s Bar Menu sounds like an excellent choice for lunch or a light supper with things like Sopresatta, robiolo and sliced lemon on ciabatta (a bread loaf with a light, thin crust, about 8" long); Grilled House Veal Sausage with sautéed rabe on ciabatta; Grilled Eggplant with tomato and mozzarella; Alaskan King Crab Cakes with watercress and dill aioli; Classic Caesar Salad; Rustic Peasant Pizza Bread; Assorted Fried Seafood in a light cornmeal coating; Smoked Salmon with cream cheese and capers; house made Chicken Liver Paté; and Shrimp Cocktail, all in the $9 to $12 neighborhood.

As was expected, L’Epicureo’s move to the new Hotel Providence brings fine dining back to downtown and adds a very welcome addition to the new "Arts and Entertainment" area of the City.