For decades, Israel was known mostly for its Sacramental sweet wines. Most of these wines were associated with the Carmel Winery, established in the 1880s by Baron Edmond de Rothschild, owner of the famous Chateau Lafite in Bordeaux.

Rothschild agreed to help the Jewish colonies establish wine production, but the grape varieties brought to the country did not flourish, nor did the wine industry that stemmed from them. However, in the early 1970s, all that changed when Professor Cornelius Ough of the Department of Viticulture at the University of California at Davis visited Israel and suggested that the soil and climate of the Golan Heights would be ideal for grape growing.

In 1983, the Golan Heights Winery debuted its first wine, and it quickly became obvious that Israel was capable of making world class wines. Since that time, the antiquated winemaking traditions and changing corporate structures have given way to a group of young American winemakers, mostly trained and educated at the University of California at Davis.

The success of the Golan Winery encouraged wine growers to plant some of the more noble grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Chardonnay to replace the older varieties of Grenache, Semillon and Carigan.

Today, there are more than 140 wineries in Israel. Most wines made in Israel are Kosher, but with the most modern techniques, this is no hindrance from making state-of-the-art wines, which do well in both the Jewish and the general market.

The Carmel Winery, founded in 1882, is Israel’s largest winery. For far too many years, it produced mediocre wines, but in the past two years, the winery has taken some major steps to improve its winemaking. With a new chief executive officer and a group of highly trained winemakers, as well as the recent purchase of an exciting boutique winery called Yatir, Carmel Winery has made a promising comeback.

Carmel Winery’s Ben Zimra, Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002 has been earning critical praise. This medium bodied wine from one of Israel’s best vineyards in the upper Galilee features soft ripe fruits and tannins. It has a well balanced oak presence with lots of berry and black current fruits, and an appealing long finish.

One of Carmel’s most exciting wines is the Ramat Arad, Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon 2002. Developed from vineyards in the Negev, Israel’s desert, it is a rich, dark red, full-bodied wine. With somewhat sweet, integrated tannins, it shows many layers of black fruits and possesses a delicious long finish.

Also worth trying is the Yatir Forest 2001, a well-structured blend of 85 percent Cabernet Sauvignon and 15 percent Merlot. This is a pleasant wine with a great nose of spices and oak and a wonderful long, fruity finish.

The Golan Heights Winery, which impacted the development on all wineries in Israel, is currently manufacturing upward of five million bottles annually. Led by senior winemaker Victor Shoenfeld and his staff, all California or France trained, the winery uses both Old and New World methods.

Among some of the wines reviewed recently is the Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon 2001, a delicious, full-bodied Cabernet Sauvignon. Well-balanced between wood, fruit and tannins, this is a young wine that is already showing plum and dark fruit flavors. It has a finish of vanilla and district cedar overtones, and it considered to have great aging potential.

Also very good is the Yarden Syrah 2001, a medium, to full-bodied wine that is firm with good balance. Of a dark color, it offers strong tastes of black cherry and plum fruits, and is also earthy with licorice flavors.

The Barken Winery, located in the Hulda region, is the second largest winery in Israel. It has recently been modernized with new equipment and has employed two innovative young winemakers who have greatly improved the wine production.

Of particular note is Barken’s Superieur Cabernet Sauvignon 2000, made from grapes harvested in the Golan Heights and Upper Galilee regions. Considered one of the winery’s best, this is a full-bodied wine with black currant and blackberry taste and chocolate-ending aromas.

Barken’s Sauvignon Blanc Reserve 2003 is also very good. A medium bodied wine; it features tastes of melon, apple fruits and minerals, and contains a lively acidity with a medium long finish.