The Mooring Restaurant
Sayer’s Wharf
Newport
by Bob Mariani
The Mooring Restaurant’s name could not be more apt. Perched right on the edge of Newport Harbor, with windows looking out over the water, it’s been an integral part of this seafaring city’s world-class yachting cache’ for decades. Up until the end of World War II, the lofty, gray-shingled building with its high ceilings and exposed beams was once the famed New York Yacht Club Station No. 6, a watering hole for the yachting crowd. In 1981 it was renovated and became The Mooring.
It has never pretended to be anything much more than a good, slightly upscale seafood restaurant with the obligatory surf ‘n’ turf dishes to round out their menu. Indeed, it is the quintessential dock-side dining, Newport experience. On the cold, windy February night we went, there were plenty of table options in either the cozy lounge with its flickering fireplace, or on the Sunset Porch with a water view. We chose the latter and watched the waves lap and the moorings bob as we sipped our cocktails and perused the menu.
The Mooring’s wine list is prodigious and recently received the Wine Spectator's "Best of Award of Excellence" for 2002, 2003 & 2004 making it one of the top 700 lists in the world. And there are a number of great by-the-glass choices.
For my appetizer, I chose one of the Mooring’s specialties; the Scallop Chowder ($6.95), a light, white, but not creamy broth laced with big juicy scallops and delectable kernels of corn; an interesting change of pace from the usual chowders and bisques, which are also offered here. My wife began with the crab cakes ($14.95); lightly encrusted lump crabmeat served over a roasted corn salsa and a spicy chipotle. How nice it was to have the summery taste of corn in one’s mouth again. Other appetizers included House Mussels in a white wine broth; creamy, warm brie with roasted almonds and dried cherry compote; fried clam bellies; smoked salmon with red onions and capers; popcorn shrimp; and seared tuna with a ginger soy sauce.
My entrée was from the list of "Mooring Classics", the seafood scampi ($26.95). It was a mixture of a small lobster tail (split and half out-of-the-shell), crispy roasted shrimp, and plump, juicy scallops in a very mild, light broth just barely tinged with garlic herb butter. A scattering of diced tomatoes completed the dish. My wife chose one of the evening’s specials, the herb-crusted yellow fin tuna steak ($22.95). The tuna was cooked just to her liking— not too rare. The topping, which consisted of finely crumbled bread crumbs and melted blue cheese, seemed a slightly odd pairing and I’m not sure the cheese did much to enhance the flavor of the fish.
Other Mooring Classics included Seafood Pie ($22.95), a shrimp, lobster, scallop casserole with a sweet cracker crust; tiger shrimp ($24.95) stuffed with scallops and crab meat in a Ritz Cracker crust; baked scallops ($22.95) in a sherry sauce; Surf ‘n’ Turf ($39.95); and baked, stuffed lobster at market price.
There’s also a "Simply Grilled" menu with things like Mahi- Mahi in lemon tarragon butter ($19.95); Atlantic salmon ($19.95); red steak tuna ($21.95); and swordfish steak ($21.95). And The Mooring offers "Specialty Items" like baked haddock, wild mushroom ravioli, and Fish and Chips. For meat fans, there are chicken breasts, pork chops, and steak.
For dessert I ordered the caramel apple pie, a light but sweet-tooth satisfying creation drizzled with caramel sauced. Jan had the Boston cheese pie, an interesting variation of cheesecake with a chocolate crust.
If you come from some place inland searching for the typical Newport seafood experience, you will definitely not be disappointed at The Mooring. If you’re a local looking for good, straightforward seafood simply prepared, The Mooring is also a good choice. Of course, with its outdoor verandas and bars, the summertime experience here takes on an added dimension of warm weather, seaside ambiance that’s hard to beat.
The Mooring’s hours are: Sunday 12:00 - 9:00pm; Monday - Thursday 11:30am - 9:00pm; Friday & Saturday 11:30am - 10:00pm. On holidays they open at noon. For reservations and information call 846-2260 or visit their
website.Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Your Table is Ready" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
