Table 28
28 Water Street
East Greenwich
by Bob Mariani
Handsome. Cozy. Romantic. Those are the words which quickly spring to mind as you step inside Table 28’s waterside location in East Greenwich. Soft, dark woods, low vaulted ceilings and fieldstone fireplaces create an ambiance that artfully combines nautical serenity with mountain lodge warmth. There’s a crackling, real log fireplace in the downstairs bar and another in the dining room upstairs looking out over the East Greenwich cove marina. At around seven, on a cold February evening, there are only few patrons; quite the contrast to the throngs of summertime customers, many of whom arrive by boat.
The menu begins with offerings called "Little Plates," New England clam chowder; baked onion soup; a selection of house salads (including the increasingly popular "Wedge of iceberg lettuce with house-made blue cheese and apple wood bacon bits). My friend, Brian, chose the calamari ($7.95) to start. Delicately battered and served with a coriander pesto dipping sauce, those little squid rings would have floated off the plate had they been any lighter and fluffier. I ordered the PEI mussels steamed in white wine with onions and garlic ($8.95). This is a good starter if you don’t want anything too heavy. I particularly liked the broth but was a bit disappointed that there wasn’t more of it.
Other appetizers that looked interesting included a spinach and artichoke focaccia ($5.95); crab cakes with jicama slaw and confit tomatoes ($8.95); sautéed shrimp topped with tequila, triple sec, lime and cilantro sauce ($9.95); and thin crust pizza.
The entrée list had no particular focus but instead, offered a little something for both carnivores and seafood fans: pan-roasted chicken breasts with grilled artichoke hearts, capers and a Dijon gravy ($15.95); the "Barn and Bay", a 7oz. Tenderloin with a sautéed jumbo shrimp ($25.95); Cioppino
—mussels, clams, cod, shrimp, and chourico in a spicy tomato sauce over linguini ($19.95); roasted cod with chourico cracker topping ($14.95); jumbo scallops pan-seared in wilted spinach ($16.95); a smoked pork chop over soft polenta with caramelized apple chutney ($14.95).Feeling more than a bit peck-ish, Brian chose the 28oz. hand-cut New York Sirloin ($34.95) and was a bit overwhelmed when a steak the size of small engine block arrived. He should have known. The meat, which was seductively tender all the way through, was finished with a slather of garlic/shallot butter and came with a side of crispy French fries. It was easily enough for two adults with very healthy appetites.
I ordered the Table 28 Meatloaf ($12.95). The tender chop meat was cooked perfectly medium rare with a rich brown sauce and what I think were chewy "oyster" mushrooms. The entire affair sat on a bed of puffy mashed potatoes and was topped with a nest of shoestring and onion string fries. Texture-wise, this meatloaf was close to perfection. My only complaint was that I found the sauce a bit too salty, masking the flavor of the meat, which was indeed delicious.
We were both really too full for desserts but I forced myself to try their delightfully rich house-made apple strudel with a side of vanilla ice cream. The strudel dough had a great soft, chewy texture and the little apple junks just oozed flavor.
Table 28 will, in the summer time, no doubt become a destination restaurant with its wonderful water views and accessibility for sailors and yachtsmen. Be assured too that the menu will change to some extent, to include certain must-have summer fare such as lobster and fresh catch-of-the-day. Meanwhile though, you can sample their very satisfying winter menu without the crowds and the summer season hubbub. For more information about seasonal hours call 885-1170.
Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
