Brick Alley Pub
140 Thames Street
Newport
by Bob Mariani
If you need proof that Newport’s efforts to revitalize itself during the dreaded winter off-season are working, stop in to the Brick Alley Pub any chilly weeknight this time of year. On the Tuesday we went, there was barely an empty seat in the house. (It was the week of the Newport Winter Festival which coincided with school vacation.)
Of course, after 25 years in this prime Newport location, owner Ralph Plumb has learned what attracts crowds—variety. The menu at the Brick Alley is as wide ranging and eclectic as its décor, which includes everything from sports memorabilia and antique road signs to old push toys, movie posters, and a full-size vintage pickup truck. There iss a couple of bars, a salad bar, a fireplace, and a wait staff that is as fun and friendly as they are fast and efficient.
Our waitress told us that a while back, the menu was so voluminous that some of the frailer staff members had trouble carrying more than one at a time. It’s been "streamlined" down to about 100 items and it literally leaves no culinary stone un-turned.
I began with five Prince Edward Island oysters on the half-shell baked with spinach, artichokes, chopped tomatoes and bacon bits, and finished with a rich creamy hollandaise sauce ($8.95). This variation on the classic Oysters Rockefeller was a definite success, even for someone like myself who prefers his oysters raw.
My wife had the more exotic California Nori Roll ($6.95), crab "surimi" meat and avocado bites wrapped in sticky rice and wasabi with pickled ginger, soy sauce and hot, hot wasabi sauce. This was a really great starter, light and flavorful— but if you can’t stand the heat, use the wasabi very sparingly. These two starters were from the evening’s Dinner Specials, along with things like 2-alarm chili; jumbo crab cakes; hickory-smoked scallops; and nacho platters.
Back on the regular menu, we ordered the Cajun Meatloaf ($14.95) entrée with a side of mashed potatoes. The portion was the size of third base and very moist and home-y tasting. The Cajun sauce was a good deal milder and less smoky than we’d expected, but it nonetheless complimented the meatloaf quite well. We took home more than half.
I opted for one of the other specials for the night— the Crispy-Roasted, Semi-Boneless Long Island Duck ($17.95) — two legs and two thighs in a Swedish (and slightly sweet-ish) lingonberry glaze. The duck meat, which can be dry, was juicy and full of flavor. My side order of wild and long grain rice was just the right accompaniment. Again, we took home half.
It’s really hard to come up with something they don’t offer at the Brick Alley Pub. And there are great combos and values to fit just about every pocketbook, too— from pizzas and burgers to all kinds of great salads, wraps, soups and seafood.
For dessert, Jan had Tina’s bread pudding ($5.95), a real old fashioned, soft, fluffy version with raisins and a caramel- rum sauce served warm. I went for the "Southwestern Sunday" ($4.95), a large, crisp flour tortilla coated in cinnamon sugar that housed a big scoop of delicious vanilla ice cream topped with honey, and sliced almonds, surrounded by whipped cream.
I should mention that the Pub’s wine list is extensive and has received "The Award of Excellence" from The Wine Spectator. There are also 16 by-the-glass wine choices too, as well as a hefty array of ales and beers, and original cocktail creations. They’ve got an upstairs room for parties and are open for lunch and dinner every day. For more information please call 849-6334 or visit their
website.Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Your Table is Ready" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
