Viola’s
De Pasquali Square
Providence
by Bob Mariani
There’s a reason why, on a cold, wet, February night, in the middle of the week, when a lot of restaurants are empty, the line to get into Viola’s was about ten-deep and growing. The current owner, Frank Mangianti, delivers really good, hearty Italian food at reasonable prices in a warm, friendly atmosphere. Mangianti is a native Rhode Islander who used to cook at the once-famous Golden Lantern in Warwick, where the celebrities from the Warwick Music Tent used to dine "back in the day".
My experience at Viola’s under previous ownership was for the most part under-whelming. But in its new iteration, there’s a lot to like. The salads, for instance; I don’t think I’ve ever written more than two words to describe a dinner salad, but the baby spinach salad ($10) at Viola’s was like a breath of summer in the midst of a long, cold winter. The crisp, fresh spinach leaves were laced with all kinds of flavors from grilled red onion rings to apple smoked bacon, gorgonzola and cashews, dressed in a maple-soy vinaigrette.
Reluctantly passing over appetizers like clams and mussels zuppa ($10); grilled polenta with prosciutto, shrimp, gorgonzola and herbs ($10); and stuffed mushrooms ($9), I ordered the mushroom bruschetta ($10). This dish was enough for three people and consisted of a rich mixture of baby shrimp sautéed with wild mushrooms, white beans, plum tomatoes, capers, and fresh herbs, all served on a nice slice of Italian bread. If anything, there were almost too many flavors going on here.
One of our entrees was from the list of nine pasta dishes: the veal Bolognese ($17). Again, the portion size was mega-big. The flat, perfectly al dente pappardella pasta was combined with chunks of provimi veal in a fresh plum tomato sauce with a touch of cream and topped with fresh basil. Not all the seasonings were spelled out on the menu, but whatever they were, they combined to create a classic, satisfying flavor. And there was enough leftover for at least another meal.
My entrée was the braised pork shank ($17) and it was served bone-in, standing upright on a bed of fluffy mashed potatoes. The meat had been cooked to melt-in-your-mouth tenderness in a luscious port wine demi glace. It was accompanied by sautéed asparagus spears and a large sprig of rosemary for a touch of spring. Again I took home enough for another meal.
Other entrees I’ll be back to sample at Viola’s are: the Provimi Veal Melanzana ($19) with spinach ricotta and grilled eggplant ($19); the roasted free-range half-chicken ($18) seasoned with dried and fresh herbs; the baked scrod ($18) topped with shrimp and scallops and light pesto breadcrumbs; the seafood Fra Diablo ($20); and of course, the lobster raviolis ($19) topped with pan-seared shrimp and scallops. Viola’s also has a selection of grilled pizzas in the $10 to $12 range.
When I saw the crowd starting to build up, at first I thought most were there for Viola’s "two-fer" menu, which may just be the best dinner bargain in town these days. For $29.95 you can choose from ten entrees like chicken or veal marsala, braised pork shank, penne and veal, baked scrod, or a 10oz. sirloin steak with sides of pasta and vegetables. Plus soup or salad and a glass of house wine each. But looking around the room, I saw many people ordering from the regular menu.
Either way, you’re not going to walk away from Viola’s feeling hungry or over-charged. Looks like Federal Hill has yet another jewel in its culinary crown.
Viola’s is open 5pm to 11pm Tuesday through Saturday, from 3pm to 11pm on Sunday and is closed on Monday. For information call 861-5766.
Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Your Table is Ready" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
