The Sakonnet Fish Co.
657 Park Avenue
Portsmouth
by Bob Mariani
Island Park is one of Rhode Island’s unpretentious little seas-side communities where you’re almost certain to find great fresh seafood simply prepared. The Sakonnet Fish Company epitomizes this style of dining. It sits in the middle of the tiny island on the briny Sakonnet River. The décor is rough-hewn boathouse with overhead ceiling fans and a stone fireplace in the bar. The view would be pretty terrific where it not obscured by the little fishing shacks and beach cottages that line Island Park’s shore.
But if it’s fresh seafood you’re after, this is the place. On a blustery Wednesday night there was a busy party going on in the second floor function room, but downstairs in the main dining area, it was pretty quiet. For an appetizer, we shared a plate of "Calamari a la Providence" ($9.95) —deep fried chewy rings with tabs of hot pepper, onions and a few dots of mayonnaise. As much as I kid Rhode Island eateries for all offering this ubiquitous dish, I have to admit that it’s just plain fun to eat. And this was a classic version.
My wife’s entrée was another classic— English Style fish and chips ($11.95). I’ve never tasted them in Great Britain, but this version was certainly as good if not better than any American version I’ve tasted. The batter was light and crisp and the cod inside was juicy and very fresh tasting. It came on a heap of crispy fries with a cup of cracked pepper slaw.
I opted for the Baked Almond Crusted Codfish with apricot butter ($14.95) and was really delighted with how light and fresh-from-the-sea it tasted. The codfish steak was very moist and cooked exactly right and its almond crust gave it just the desired amount of crunch. The surprise note was the dab of apricot butter. It’s mildly sweet taste added just enough contrast to keep you wanting more. On the side, I had a serving of white rice with pine nuts, and a batch of lightly steamed veggies— zucchini and yellow squash very simply done. The entire dish was very deftly done and left me feeling fully satisfied but not full.
Dessert was the Fish Company’s own house-made apple pie, with a luscious buttery crust and plenty of soft, sweet apples inside. Another classic, simply done, that’s become one of their signature dishes. Some of the other menu items I’ll be back for are their pan seared lobster cakes; their coconut shrimp; and something they call "Old Sturbridge Baked Brie" with cranberry chutney.
In their "Signature Seafood" department, they offer Ahi Tuna Parfait— raw tuna served with "Hijiki salad," pickled ginger, wasabi and aged soy. (Not your typical Yankee dish, by any means.) There’s also Clams Casino, and a "Lobster Martini" with cracked pepper slaw and a lime aioli.
Back on the more traditional part of the menu, there’s grilled salmon with an orange-ginger glaze; or baked scallops from New Bedford in a white wine and butter sauce; Cape Cod Cod with cranberry butter; and a hefty-sounding seafood lasagna ($19.95)— a bowl brimming with shrimp, scallops, and lobster meat in a cream sauce. "Due to popular demand," the menu says, "we’ve added two more layers!"
But you needn’t be a seafood fan to dine well at the Sakonnet Fish Company. They’ve got a 14 oz. N.Y. Sirloin topped with gorgonzola cheese or bourbon-glazed and topped with caramelized onions. There’s also pasta with shrimp scampi, or little necks; grilled vegetable ravioli; meat ravioli Bolognase; and past primavera, in addition to local cold water lobster.
In short, The Sakonnet Fish Company covers just about all the bases in a relaxed, low-key atmosphere anyone will feel comfortable in. And everything on the menu is under $20 except for the lobster, which is at market price. They’re open for lunch and dinner and functions in the upstairs room (where the water view is a lot more accessible).
For more information call 683-1180 or visit their
Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
