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YOUR TABLE IS READY
McCormick & Schmick’s
Providence Biltmore Hotel
11 Dorrance Street
Providence, RI

by Bob Mariani
05-29-2006

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The Napa Valley Grille
Providence Place Mall
Providence, RI

by Bob Mariani
05-11-2006

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La Luna
272 Thayer Street
Providence, RI

by Bob Mariani
04-30-2006

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Gracie’s
194 Washington Street
Providence, RI

by Bob Mariani
04-13-2006

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The Blue Plate Diner
665 West Main Road
Middletown, RI

by Bob Mariani
03-23-2006

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The Lobster Pot
119 Hope Street
Bristol, RI

by Rob Mariani
01-6--2006

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Most Memorable Dishes of the Year
by Bob Mariani
12-5--2005

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Bella Vista
One Finance Way
Providence, RI

by Bob Mariani
12-24-2005

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A Very Good Year
by Bob Mariani
11-24-2005

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The Hi-Hat
3 Davol Square
Providence, RI

by Bob Mariani
11-17-2005

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The Salvation Café
140 Broadway
Newport, RI

by Bob Mariani
10-6--2005

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Red Stripe
465 Angell Street
Providence

by Bob Mariani
10-28-2005

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Blaze
776 Hope Street
Providence, RI

by Bob Mariani
10-20-2005

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Lot 401
44 Hospital Street
Providence Jewelry District

by Bob Mariani
10-13-2005

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Audrey’s at the Johnson & Wales Inn
213 Taunton Avenue
Seekonk, MA

by Bob Mariani
09-29-2005

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Twist
336 Baldhill Road
Warwick, RI

by Bob Mariani
09-22-2005

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McCormick & Schmic
by Bob Mariani
09-13-2005

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Jacky’s Galaxie & Sushi B
by Bob Mariani
08-5--2005

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The Longhorn Steakhouse
400 Bald Hill Road
Warwick Mall, Warwick

by Bob Mariani
08-26-2005

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The Grille On Ma
by Bob Mariani
08-13-2005

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Bella Vis
by Bob Mariani
07-8--2005

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Shogun Steak & Seafood Hou
by Bob Mariani
07-29-2005

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The Downstairs Bist
by Bob Mariani
07-22-2005

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Raphael Bar Ris
by Bob Mariani
07-15-2005

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The Gatehouse Restaura
by Bob Mariani
07-1--2005

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DeWolf Tave
by Bob Mariani
06-3--2005

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Oak Restaurant and B
by Bob Mariani
06-24-2005

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Persimmon Restaura
by Bob Mariani
06-20-2005

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Lot 4
by Bob Mariani
06-10-2005

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Pane E Vi
by Bob Mariani
05-6--2005

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The Nat. Porter I
by Bob Mariani
05-27-2005

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The Hi-H
by Bob Mariani
05-20-2005

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French Regional Wine Class/Tasti
by Bob Mariani
05-13-2005

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L’Epicureo at The Hotel Providen
by Bob Mariani
04-8--2005

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Zooma Bar Ristoran
by Bob Mariani
04-29-2005

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The Glass Oni
by Bob Mariani
04-22-2005

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Cherryston
by Bob Mariani
04-15-2005

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Napa Valley Gril
by Bob Mariani
04-1--2005

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The Mooring Restaura
by Bob Mariani
03-4--2005

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Mediterran
by Bob Mariani
03-25-2005

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Geppetto
by Bob Mariani
03-18-2005

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Caffe Dolce Vi
by Bob Mariani
03-11-2005

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Table
by Bob Mariani
02-4--2005

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Brick Alley P
by Bob Mariani
02-25-2005

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The Ivy Tave
by Bob Mariani
02-18-2005

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Viola
by Bob Mariani
02-11-2005

TABLE FOR TWO
The Sakonnet Fish C
by Bob Mariani
01-7--2005

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Lei’s Bar & Grill (formerly The Catfish Gril
by Bob Mariani
01-28-2005

TABLE FOR TWO
The Lobster P
by Bob Mariani
01-21-2005

TABLE FOR TWO
Lucky Gard
by Bob Mariani
01-14-2005

TABLE FOR TWO
Best of 2004
by Bob Mariani
12-30-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Best of ’04 Best New Restaurant
DeWolf Tave

by Bob Mariani
12-3--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Best of 2004
by Bob Mariani
12-23-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Best of 2004
by Bob Mariani
12-17-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Best of 2004
by Bob Mariani
12-10-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
XO Steak Hou
by Bob Mariani
11-5--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
DeWolf Tave
by Bob Mariani
11-28-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
10 Steak & Sus
by Bob Mariani
11-19-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Chiazza Trattori
by Bob Mariani
11-12-2004

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Big Fi
by Bob Mariani
10-22-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The Downstairs Bistro at Second Story Theat
by Bob Mariani
10-15-2004

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Kabob & Cur
by Bob Mariani
10-1--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Ind
by Bob Mariani
09-3--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Mc Fadden
by Bob Mariani
09-24-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The Longhorn Steakhou
by Bob Mariani
09-10-2004

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The Cheeky Monkey Ca
by Bob Mariani
08-6--2004

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Café de V
by Bob Mariani
08-31-2004

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Sushi-Go, we hope they stay!
by Alica London
08-27-2004

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Mo
by Bob Mariani
08-20-2004

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The Oyster Bar & Gri
by Bob Mariani
08-13-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Summer Round-up
by Bob Mariani
07-9--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Pakara
by Bob Mariani
07-30-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Feast or Fami
by Bob Mariani
07-23-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
McCormick & Schmick
by Bob Mariani
07-2--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Renaissan
by Bob Mariani
07-15-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Chez Pasc
by Bob Mariani
06-4--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Ind
by Bob Mariani
06-25-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The Sideb
by Bob Mariani
06-18-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Trattoria Simpati
by Bob Mariani
06-11-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Upcoming Events
by Bob Mariani
05-7--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The King’s Fea
by Bob Mariani
05-28-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The Blue Fin Gril
by Bob Mariani
05-21-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Lot 4
by Bob Mariani
05-14-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Caffe It
by Bob Mariani
04-9--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The Downstairs Bist
by Bob Mariani
04-30-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Providence Pri
by Bob Mariani
04-23-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Le Bistro Newpo
by Bob Mariani
04-2--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Kartab
by Bob Mariani
04-16-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The Canfield Hou
by Bob Mariani
03-5--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Redlefsen’s Rotisserie & Gri
By Bob Mariani
03-26-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Jack’s Family Restaura
by Bob Mariani
03-19-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The Providence Oyster B
By Bob Mariani
03-12-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The Capital Gril
by Bob Mariani
02-6--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Haruki Ea
by Bob Mariani
02-27-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Café Nuo
by Bob Mariani
02-20-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Portabel
by Bob Mariani
02-13-2004

TABLE FOR TWO
Kabob and Cur
by Bob Mariani
01-9--2004

TABLE FOR TWO
The Lobster Pot, 119-121 Hope Street, Bristol
by Bob Mariani
01-16-2004

Table for Two
Best of ’04 Best New Restaurant
DeWolf Tavern
259 Thames Street
Bristol Landing, Bristol


Melicia Phillips and her husband, Chef Sai Viswanath, have transformed a rustic 1818 harbor side warehouse in Bristol into a cozy, two-story Tavern with stone walls and aged wood floors. It fits Bristol’s seafaring atmosphere along Thames Street perfectly. But what’s most remarkable here is the sophistication and style that Chef Sai brings to your table. He holds degrees from the Culinary Institute of America where he also taught, and from the hotel school in Madras, India. His press sheet says he has "traveled the world refining his cuisine, holding positions as Chef of the renowned Indigo in Mumbai, India (voted one of the world’s best 60 restaurants by Conde Nast) and at Union Square in New York City."

Inspired by Rhode Island’s rich bounty of fresh seafood, Chef Sai has created a unique American menu with just the subtlest hints of the very best Indian spices. His mastery is in his ability to balance and focus flavors in a variety of very memorable ways. Witness one of his starters—sweet potato gnocchi with a braised short rib, garnished with toasted pecans and accents of blue cheese and frissee. Every flavor here works beautifully: the warm, mild sweet potato pasta is a subtle contrast to the stronger beefy flavor of the meat. Then there is the hint of sharp sourness from the cheese and the sweet crunch of the pecans.

Another winning dish is Chef Sai’s plump jumbo shrimp roasted in a charcoal Tandoor oven and served with delicate coconut-lentil bisque and accented by a ginger-carrot slaw. For a deliciously understated sweet-and-sour experience, there is Chef Sai’s "tuna pastrami"; thinly sliced tuna with a rum and pineapple glaze served with crisp fresh shallots.

In the entrée department, I can find little to compare with the exquisite blending of the roasted trout stuffed with chorizo cornbread and served on a bed of creamed spinach, its multi-levels of flavors both new and familiar will have your eyes rolling with pleasure. There is also a remarkable "seafood goulash" that pairs delicate crabmeat pilaf with a wrap of cooked cabbage. The Tandoor chicken au jus lives up to its title. It is indeed juicy and comes with a succulent Brussel sprout hash and a sweet potato Gratin that complement it perfectly. Most prices for entrées range from about $22 to $27.

Desserts are all original conceptions and house-made and none will disappoint. A standout among several excellent choices is the warm chocolate banana bread sandwich with rum raisin ice cream and butterscotch sauce.

DeWolf’s also has a paired down nightly tavern menu with a couple of wonderful 3-course combinations that include a glass of house wine for $24.95. Wednesday night is "Burger Night", and there’s a Cognac Bar offering cognac, grappa and single barrel bourbons.

DeWolf’s is open every night for dinner. 254-2005. Visit their website.

Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.

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