Best of 2004
by Bob Mariani
Most Creative Presentation
10 Steak & Sushi
55 Pine Street
Providence
This place will probably sweep this category every year because Providence’s 10 Steak & Sushi is so unique in just about every way. I’ve described it as a kind of culinary circus with its flamboyantly sexy wall sconces, its neon lighting, hot salsa sound track, and over-the-top menu items.
In addition to a hefty wine list of "redheads" and "blonds," the wittily written list of special cocktails features items like the Kryptonite Mojito, the Clean Shaven Cosmo, the Love at First Bite, and the Brazilian Panty Dropper.
Starters include such delicacies as lobster rangoons with apricot dipping sauce ($11.95); littlenecks ($9) or oysters on the half shell ($13.95); or Maine crab cakes with tartar sauce ($11.95)— as well as an extensive selection of nigiri, sashimi and sushi rolls.
I, for one, have become a bit bored with the usual architectural presentations in which food is stacked and balanced on plates in curious but arbitrary arrangements. But at 10 there’s always a visual connection or sight gag between the presentation and the dish itself. Their corn crusted calamari ($9.95), for instance, is served in a white cardboard, fast food type take-out box that artfully spills out its contents onto the plate as if someone had just knocked it over.
10’s grilled swordfish steak ($26.95) topped with a deep, dark red puttenesca sauce spiced with capers and black olives is a perfect complement to the mildly sweet swordfish taste. And their USDA Prime, 12oz. filet mignon ($30.95) is tender and delicious all the way through and comes with a creamy béarnaise sauce.
Some of the other dishes listed under 10’s "Entrée s We Love" section are the Grilled Meatloaf with three-onion demi glace ($21.95); the sliced Tenderloin in a mushroom-wine sauce, with gorgonzola potato cake and grilled asparagus ($26.95); and the Double Chicken Breast with crisp shallots, smashed potatoes and stir-fried spinach ($19.95).
In the sushi department, 10 offers a tremendous selection including sampling dishes for beginners that will ease them into the raw fish thing. I can’t imagine a better place to learn about all the marvelous Asian combinations.
The dessert menu comes with a pair of 3-D glasses to convey some idea of the heft and size of the offerings here. There is the relatively diminutive Coffee and Donuts ($8.50), a half-dozen mini donuts fresh from the fryer and accompanied by a coffee cup full of luscious coffee ice cream.
And then there’s "Cheryl’s Wedding Cake" ($14), an item that changes daily but is always notoriously huge. Ours was a two-foot high (I’m not exaggerating) slab of chocolate layer cake with a coffee icing. This is a good thing to order next time you take 10 friends out for an after-dinner treat.
10 is open Monday through Thursday from 11:30am to 10pm; Friday and Saturday from 11:30am to 11pm, and Sunday from 5pm to 11pm. For more information call (401) 453-2333 or visit their website.
Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
