DeWolf Tavern
259 Thames Street
Bristol Landing, Bristol
by Bob Mariani
Ever heard of a "lobster popover?" Neither had I until the other night at the beautifully restored DeWolf Tavern on Bristol Harbor. It turned out to be one of those terrific ideas you’re surprised no one’s thought of before. But Chef Sai Viswanath’s menu is loaded with great ideas. In fact, I’d have to say that this cozy waterfront tavern adjacent to the Harborside Hotel is definitely one of the most interesting additions to the Rhode Island culinary scene in quite some time.
Stripped down to the bare granite walls, with exposed ceiling beams, sleek new bars upstairs and down, and a lovely harbor view, this former (1818) warehouse has a warm, welcoming feeling and a menu of dishes that are superbly focused.
I was concerned that my starter, the lobster popover, would be a bit heavy. Not so. The house-made popover was light and airy and, split down the middle, it made a perfect little soup dish for a ladle-full of savory lobster bisque with juicy lobster chunks. I liked that the lobster meat tasted like it had been cooked with the soup instead of being added later. It was accompanied by a small salad of warm wilted field greens that complemented the bisque perfectly.
My wife began with the baby arugula salad with vinaigrette dressing, shaved fennel, red onion slices that were so thin you could see through them, tiny bacon bits for a smoky note, and tangy blood orange chunks. Nothing perfunctory about this salad. It was a great way to get your taste buds’ attention before the main course. First courses range in price from $5 to $12.
There were 11 entrées including a vegetarian plate and it was not easy to choose one— they all sounded so interesting. For instance: A fricassee of swordfish with white wine, champagne grapes, exotic mushrooms and scallions; pan-roasted salmon with Rouille in Ajwain tomato broth with vegetable vermicelli pilaf; grilled Delmonico steak with sweet potato and bacon gratin (available with a roasted lobster tail); Tandoor baby chicken au jus with Brussels sprout hash and sweet potato gratin; roast quail filled with mushroom Biryani with a truffled soubise sauce.
I finally chose the grilled baby veal chops. Bite-size and delicate, they’d been cooked just beyond pink and came in a nest of fresh fettuccine with a lean red sauce of tomatoes, black olives, roasted red peppers and a blend of seasonings that somehow mixed the familiar with the exotic in a very interesting and satisfying way.
My wife ordered the roast trout with chorizo cornbread stuffing. The fish was hefty and cooked perfectly, and the stuffing was very light, adding just the right texture. But what absolutely thrilled us was the creamed spinach sauce. It was a very smooth puree that at first tasted like the traditional Indian saag, but which then blossomed on your tongue into a soft, sweet burst of new flavors like ginger and saffron and I-don’t-know-what-else. None of the flavors were overpowering, and the subtle balance was perfect. As an added note, and again in harmony with the entire dish, there was a small dollop of delicately shredded spaghetti squash that brought a sweet, ginger note to complete the experience. This is one of those memorable dishes that really satisfies without filling you up. Entrée prices range from $24 to $36.
There are about a half-dozen dessert items. But (and why hasn’t anyone thought of this before?) there’s also a dessert sampler. It contained a luscious mouthful of chocolate lava cake with a kirsch cherry center; a tantalizing hazelnut mousse in a little chocolate cage (to keep it from escaping, I guess); warm apple cheddar bread pudding with a caramel sauce; a delicate fruit crisp with crème fraiche; and my favorite-- a warm chocolate chip banana bread sandwich with rum raisin ice cream and butterscotch sauce. There was not a misstep in the lot and any one of the choices will get your eyes rolling with delight. But having a chance to taste each one was perfect.
DeWolf’s also has a brief but very interesting tavern menu that changes nightly, and a stripped down bar menu with items like southern fried chicken lollipops with mint ranch dressing and fruit chutney ($9); or steamed mussels ($10) in a saffron and white wine, or a coconut milk, chili and curry leaf sauce .
Because Bristol is so strict about signage, you may have a little trouble finding DeWolf’s on Thames Street. Best thing is to park in the lot for the Harborside Hotel and ask in the hotel lobby. They’re open for dinner every night. For reservations or for more information call 254-2005 or visit their
website.Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
