India
5600 Post Road
East Greenwich
by Bob Mariani
There is a reassuring consistency about all five of the India restaurants throughout Rhode Island. The décor is always lush and comfortable, the staff always happy and friendly, and the food is always just adventurous enough to make you want to come back again.
The India restaurant in East Greenwich occupies the space that was once Raphael’s Bar Risto. It has retained the beautiful carved wood bar, the dark wall panels and restful ambient light. A few Indian fabrics and some stunning photographs of exotic Indian people give it an authentic feel. The menu is identical in all five restaurants but they are always adding and evolving, keeping a nice balance between authentic Indian flavors and what the more timid American pallet will tolerate. Spices are sharp and interesting but never overpowering.
We began with some Aloo Tikki ($4), a grilled patty of softly boiled potatoes topped with chutneys, chopped onions, chick peaks, green peas, cilantro and chives and garnished with a sweet tamarind sauce. A single portion is more than ample for two.
Our other appetizer was a delightful pair of vegetable Samosas ($3), golf ball-size turnovers stuffed with potatoes, peas and plenty of interesting herbs and peppery spices. Note that traditionally Samosas are deep-fried, but in an effort to provide Americans with a healthier, lighter version, these dumplings were baked and, we felt, improved in the process. (In fact, India’s kitchens are devoid of deep fryers.)
My entrée was one I had not tried before. It was from the "Chef’s Special Curries" list—Seafood Mango ($15). When it arrived at the table, I at first thought they’d brought me the wrong thing. The menu described this dish as "jumbo sea scallops, tiger shrimps and mussels in a sweet, sour and spicy curried mango sauce with pineapple and cashews." But all I saw was a bed of rice with 6 mussels on top of it doused with a red sauce. It wasn’t until I dug into the bed of rice that I discovered all the other ingredients. The mildness of the mussels responded well, I thought, to the very strong flavored sweet and sour sauce. As did the other seafood tidbits. And I especially liked the highlights of the nuts and fruit.
Our other entrée was also from the Chef’s Special Curries list—Peppered Duck in tamarind curry ($15). This creation is one of the staff’s favorites and it’s easy to see why. Tender pieces of marinated duck tenderloin are marinated and grilled and then simmered in a tangy, sweet and spicy tamarind-based curry sauce along with figs and hazelnuts. The flavors of the meat and the nuts and figs were such an interesting mixture, I almost wished there had been less sweet tamarind sauce to compete with it. Still, this curry is a really nice departure from your more typical Saags and Kabobs, of which there is an ample supply on India’s menu.
Although they do not use an authentic tandoori oven at India, they do quite a good job of replicating that traditional smoky flavor in all their tans (breads) and meats. Anyone who has been to an India restaurant is aware that they pretty much cover all the typical Indian specialties and they do it well. And for those who might be a bit timid about trying something as exotic as Indian food, this is a great place to begin gently and work your way towards the more unusual dishes.
Their hours in East Greenwich are 11:30am to 3:00pm for lunch and 4:30pm to 10:00pm for dinner, Monday through Thursday; 11:30am to 11:00pm on Fridays; Noon to 11:00pm on Saturday; and from 11:00am to 10:00pm on Sunday. There is also a take-out menu and they cater as well. For more information call their East Greenwich location at 884-4424 or visit their
website.Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
