Renaissance
242 Atwells Avenue
Providence
by Bob Mariani
In the space that was formerly Adolph’s Meat Market, once the source of perhaps the best veal on Federal Hill, Renaissance has taken a foothold and seems to be attracting its share of customers. The space is relatively small and cozy with opulent drapes adorning the small bar. There are glass doors that on a cool, breezy July night opened onto the street. The soft lighting, old brick walls and comfortably upholstered seats all feel very welcoming and relaxed.
From the menu, which promises "a seduction of the senses," we began with their Seafood Cakes, a Renaissance specialty. These were delicious hand-made cakes of loosely packed blue crab, tiger shrimp and lobster meat seared and sharply seasoned and served over a bed of mixed greens with ancho aioli ($11.95). They made a light and wonderful appetite stimulator.
Next, we shared a refreshing Caprese Salad ($6.95) made with local mozzarella cheese and tomatoes and field greens with a sweet pomegranate-molasses and basil dressing. Renaissance also offers several fondues (which seemed a bit winter-y for July) and grilled pizzas.
From their pasta roster I sampled their Sicilian seafood ravioli ($22.95), three over-sized pasta cushions of beautifully textured house-made dough in a rich, buttery red sauce. The ravioli stuffing was a bit of a disappointment, however. Its perhaps overly complex mixture of shrimp, lobster and blue crab meat blended with saffron cream, parmesan cheese, and ricotta became a kind of blur of flavors unworthy of the excellent sauce. The dish was topped with four or five slightly over-cooked sea scallops.
In the entrée department, we tried one of the night’s specials— fresh swordfish in a light, summer-y lime marinade served with sautéed potatoes, onions, cherry tomatoes and cucumbers. This was a nice idea that I think would have fared better had the swordfish not been overpowered by the sauce.
Our other main entrée was the Veal Picatta ($18.95). The thinly sliced veal was covered with a rather bland cream sauce peppered with lots of piquant baby capers in the classic fashion. On the same plate they served a full portion of fresh pasta in a strong house-made red sauce that, by itself would have been a good, simple entrée.
One of Renaissance’s signature desserts, the Chocolate Dessert Ravioli, was a real triumph. Miniature ravioli-shaped shells of chocolate-flavored dough were filled with a delicious little dollop of rich Marsala-spiked mascarpone cheese and finished with a drizzle of raspberry preserve sauce. Other versions of this beauty are cherries jubilee ravioli, and brandy apple baked ravioli. All three are definitely worth a try.
The wine list at Renaissance is pretty extensive with a wide range of choices and prices.
Some of the other menu items that looked interesting were their La terre et la Mer, filet mignon with pan-seared seafood cakes in a mushroom demi-glace; tagliatelle pasta tossed with grilled chicken tenders and proscuitto in a pesto cream sauce; and smoked duck ravioli in a demi-glace with rosemary-scented pasta in a smoked shallot and tomato sauce.
Most memorable part of this particular meal? Had to be the seafood cakes appetizer.
Renaissance is open for dinner every night but Monday. For more information visit their
website or call 272-9610.Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
