The Downstairs Bistro
28 Market Street
Warren, RI
by Bob Mariani
Its name, "The Downstairs Bistro," refers to the fact that it’s downstairs from the 2nd Story Theater, Warren’s little cultural jewel where smart, creative, paired down productions have become a trademark.
When the 2nd Story Theater opened a few years back, The Bistro was a neighborhood joint with a bar and some perfunctory attempts at food. Since manager John Michael took over a few months ago, however, the change has been, well— dramatic. Suddenly Warren has a first rate theater and a first rate bistro in the same building.
The Bistro’s décor still feels neighborhood-y but with just a few classy touches like copper table tops and some stunning paintings by local artist, Charles Richardson. And there’s a baby grand piano for cabaret nights. You can dine in the wood paneled pub or in the larger dining room space.
The menu reflects Michael’s background in both Louisiana (where he grew up) and Thailand (where he spent time studying the native cuisine). The result is a streamlined group of offerings full of interesting and unforgettable flavors. You can start with items like "low country" shrimp and corn chowder; a spinach-artichoke dip or an eggplant-roasted red pepper dip; chicken satay with Indonesian peanut sauce; baked brie with fresh fruit and savories. There’s a choice of salads like their Thai Chicken Caesar that fuses the Far East and the Deep South; or the Tuscan salad with house –made crab cakes with a lemon-thyme aioli.
Our first entree was the mesquite-smoked burger with Louisiana maque choux. The good size beef patty was juicy medium rare and covered with melted Swiss cheese and topped with a chip of applewood-smoked bacon. On the side there was a tangy heap of Cajun corn succotash. The corn had a hint of the Cajun heat but came nowhere near being overpoweringly hot like some Cajun dishes.
Our other entrée was the Pad Thai with chicken, which is offered with tofu or shrimp if you prefer. This dish had a bit more of an Asian tang to it. The noodles were flat and soft in a slippery Pad Thai sauce laced with peanuts, fresh vegetables, egg and a squirt of lime. And for spring, a sprig of garden fresh pea leaves. I’ve never dined in Thailand, but this version of their classic was as good if not better than any I’ve had at local Thai restaurants. Other choices I’m looking forward to coming back for are the Bistro’s Louisiana seafood gumbo— alas, just removed from the winter menu the night we dined there; a Thai BBQ mixed grill with Louisiana maque choux; Louisiana BBQ baby back ribs with garlic-asiago cheese mashed potatoes and orange-marsala carrots; and a "Thai for Two," a mixture of the two previous dishes.
Appetizer and salad prices at the Bistro run from about $7 to $14. Entrees go for between $9 and $22. For dessert we shared some of their house-made warm chocolate bread pudding with a small scoop of vanilla ice cream— a smooth, delicious take on this classic meal-finisher.
The Bistro’s close affiliation with the 2nd Story Theater makes them extra sensitive to getting pre-show diners fed on time for the curtain. And they’re ready to accommodate those later diners who prefer to eat after the theater. It feels to me like The Bistro is off to a terrific start and that, like the Theater group upstairs, they’re going to evolve and become a major element in the Warren renaissance. There’s usually plenty of street parking and a free lot that accommodates diners and theater-goers right nextdoor. They're open every night from 5pm until 10:30pm and reservations are suggested on show nights. Fore mor information call247-4200 or visit their website.
Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
