Redlefsen’s Rotisserie & Grill
444 Thames Street
Bristol
By Bob Mariani
One glance at Chef David Reniere’s dinner menu at Redlefsen’s and it’s clear you’re not going to pigeon-hole this place. There’s seafood, there’s rotisserie-grilled meats, lobster pot pies, ravioli and pastas, wiener schnitzel, and bratwurst. Once you’ve dined here, however, you see that despite the menu’s seeming eclecticism, each dish is carefully thought-out and very well focused.
Located across Thames St. overlooking beautiful Bristol Harbor, Redlefsen’s is a cozy, friendly place with a handsome open kitchen, flickering fireplace, and high, sky-lit ceilings. We settled into our window table and began our meal with two appetizers. My Prince Edward Isle mussels ($9) were a delectable plate full of medium size mussels steamed to perfection in a light tomato concasse that was subtly enhanced with garden-fresh herbs, garlic, lemon and white wine. My criteria for a truly successful appetizer is that it should not fill you up, but set your taste buds up for the main course and this dish does precisely that.
My wife began with a lightly sautéed New England crab cake ($8). Moist and flavorful, it was served atop some crisp mesclun greens with a sweet and spicy mayonnaise dipping sauce. Other starters that looked tempting were Redlefsen’s deep-fried oysters with horseradish cream sauce ($10); little necks steamed in larger beer with chourico, onion and kale ($13); and grilled gravlax with a sweet mustard dill sauce ($9).
For my entrée I had the ravioli du jour which on this night were stuffed with a kind of eggplant pate’ and sauced with a freshly made tomato basil sauce brought to perfection with a generous sprinkling of parmigian cheese. Our other entrée was the weiner schnitzel ($19), a definite must-try when you dine here. The tender veal "steak" was pounded pancake-thin and gently sautéed in breadcrumbs and butter. The garnish was a cup of piquant capers, anchovies for salt, and a wedge of lemon for balance. Light, but extremely satisfying, the veal was accompanied by some of the fluffiest whipped potatoes I’ve ever had.
Each entrée on Redlefsen’s menu is listed with a suggested wine. Other main dishes I’d return for in a heartbeat were the breast of chicken gorgonzola simmered in a sun-dried tomato and garlic cream sauce; pecan-encrusted pork tenderloin served with a Vermont maple cream sauce; baked scrod topped with Japanese panko crumbs; twin lamb chops grilled and rubbed with herbs and spices; rainbow Carolina trout grilled and topped with a mustard dill sauce; and for German sausage lovers, grilled Bauernwurst and Bratwurst.
For dessert, we passed on the rather lavish-sounding crepes with ice cream and chocolate sauces and opted instead for an absolutely delightful little triangle of white sponge cake soaked in mango sauce with a berry mousse filling and mango coulis. We were completely satisfied without feeling full or over-stuffed.
I’ve eaten at Redlefsen’s a number of times over the past few years and always come away very pleased. Their focus remains clear, precise and right on target with every dish-- original without being contrived or trendy.
As of this year, Redlefsen’s is no longer doing lunch but they’re open every night of the week at 5 pm. Foe more information call 254-1188.
Bob Mariani is a Southeastern New England freelance author. Besides his "Table for Two" restaurant reviews found here, he also writes jazz articles on allaboutjazz.com.
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